VFR CARTRIDGE FORK SERVICE      Part Three of Four

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Version: 1.0
Author:  Robyn Landers, rblanders@math.uwaterloo.ca
Copyright (c) the author, 1996
Distribution:  May be copied as long as this header is retained.
  Improved versions will appear on my web page.
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5. Fork Reassembly
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5.1 Choosing Fork Oil

	Okay, now all the parts have been cleaned and you're
ready for reassembly.   You'll need a quart of suspension fluid.
You should use the proper type.  Do not use ordinary fork oil.
Use oil specifically made for cartridge forks.  This is important
for proper performance of the fork.   Cartridge fork oils are much
more specialized than regular damper-rod fork oils.

	The manual calls for Pro Honda SS-7.  This does not mean 7 weight!  
In fact it works out to what is usually called about a 2.5 weight
On the official rating scale for cartridge fork oils this works out to "85", 
according to my trusty local bike shop owner.

	The unit of measure for cartridge fork oil viscosity is 
Sabel Universal Seconds (SUS).  The general idea is that it measures
how long it takes for a certain amount of oil to pass through
a hole of a certain diameter.  A second scale takes into
account the viscosity retention of the oil over a temperature range.

	The oil I used is Golden Spectro 85/150.  The SUS rating is 85,
while the 150 refers to the temperature rating.  (No this does
not mean 150 degrees.)  It says right on the bottle that 85/150
is for Showa cartridge forks, which is what Honda uses.  (Honda owns Showa.)
A different viscosity is used for Kayaba cartridge forks.

	Having said all this, someone else on the net phoned
up Spectro to ask about cartridge versus non-cartridge oil.
The person at Spectro said race applications are where
it could show a difference, not street riding.  Oh well.

5.2 Reassembly

	Reassemble in order of disassembly:
1. Lube the damper rod's valve assembly with a bit of fork oil, 
   and slide the damper rod back up inside damper housing.
2. Thread locknut onto end of damper rod.  
3. I assume your compression valve assembly still has a bolt
   temporarily threaded into the end.
   Lube the compression valve assembly with a bit of fork oil,
   push it up into the damper housing, just past the groove
   where the C-clip goes.  Careful with that O-ring!
4. Install the C-clip, then pull the valve assembly down until
   it seats against the C-clip.  Remove the bolt from the end
   of the valve assembly.
5. Slip the oil lock piece (that little cup) over the end of the
   damper assembly.  Lubing it with fork oil will help it stay in place.
6. Compress the fork slider and stanchion, then insert the damper
   assembly into the fork.
7. Install the fork spring.
8. Sit the flat washer onto the fork spring.
9. Thread the fork cap bolt onto the damper rod.  Snug it down
   to the locknut using a pair of wrenches.  Then turn the preload
   adjuster all the way out.
10. Extend the fork fully, and carefully thread the fork cap bolt
   into the fork tube.  It won't be too difficult.
11. Repeat for the other fork, then take them back to the dealer
   along with the damper rod bolts and their crush washers,
   and have the bolts reinstalled using thread locking agent
   and proper torque.  The reason for reassembling the fork spring
   and cap bolt is to provide resistance to hold the damper assembly
   in place while turning the damper bolt in.
   If you have a good vise and proper tools, you could do this step yourself.
12. Back at home, remove fork cap bolt, flat washer, and fork spring.  
   Wrap some wire around the damper rod just under the locknut,
   and leave several inches sticking up so you can grab onto it later.
   Now you're ready to refill with fork oil and then bleed the air out.
   That's the subject of the next installment.